On our way to Agra!

Day 18 (1/18)

I had such a wonderful night of sleep and when I awoke I felt so much better…my body finally felt rested, it was like I could feel the color back in my face. I had packed up the night before so I got ready and headed down for some breakfast. We went to a place not far from the guesthouse and it felt so good to eat some food! I had some scrambled eggs, a croissant with homemade jam, a lassie and some tea. I didn't want to over do it but I just could't help it…although I didn't finish it all! I really enjoyed watching the daily life of those that lived there. This was the cleanest place we had been so far, they even sweep the dirt! And I just can't get enough of the push carts full of fresh whole food!

We met up with Phon at 830 to head back to the train station and along the way we had to wait at a railroad crossing for a train to pass…of course I thought of my train loving nephew Ryker but took the opportunity to get a picture taken with Phon. He was such a wonderful guide, so knowledgable about the history and happenings of his town and village and so understanding of me not feeling well. I really wish I could have spent the day with him in my normal condition…I feel like I could have really learned a lot more and gotten a better sense of the way of life there if I didn't feel like I was going to "loose it" at every moment. It was nice to have some time to talk with him while we waited to cross the tracks and got to continue our conversation once we got to the station…our train was switching tracks so it wasn't on our platform yet. Phon was very interested in looking in my India travel book to see what it said about his town, and I really enjoyed being able to have a more interactive dialogue with him if just for a short time. I will for sure be spending some more time in this cozy little town on my next trip to India and can only hope that I will have another opportunity to see Phon. Once our train was ready he walked us to the gate, I gave him a big hug and wished him well. Our goodbyes continued as I walked toward the train, it almost felt like I was saying goodbye to an old friend.

Phon and I

Next train car!

This was by far the least amount of stress we had experienced at a train station and I began to soften into the ways of travel. It was as if I was becoming seasoned. If you could imagine with me for a moment…that when I started this journey to India I was pot of water, and with each step, each experience, challenge, or accomplishment, with each day all the ingredients for a good soup stalk were, one by one, added to the pot. The sauteed minced onions and garlic, the carrots and potatoes, celery and peppers of every color, simmering slowly, soon adding spices and other vegetables depending on the taste. Salt and pepper, balsamic vinegar, allowing it to cook slowly and taking the time to really taste it, experiencing all of its ingredients individually, but also  together as they begin to blend into each other, marinating and creating a taste they couldn't have if they stayed where ever they came from, but also being able to stand on their own. Each experience I have had so far could absolutely stand on its own, but with each one together it becomes a grander experience, the experience of not just India, but of myself in India. And not just India's impact on me, but mine on her.

We were on our way to Agra, the home of the famous Taj Mahal, and I was far behind on my blog so I decided to focus on that for the duration of the journey. I had finally figured out (you know me and computers!) that I could be typing my blog in a document and then when I do find a good connection to the internet I would just have to copy, paste, and download pictures! So I was really hoping to get caught up to speed but soon had the opportunity to add a few more spices to my soup. It has always been a challenge for me to avoid a good conversation with…anyone! And thanks to David, from London, I had one all the way to Agra:) I really wish I would have gotten a picture with David but we were so involved in each others stories I missed out on the chance. He was a very colorful character, Im guessing in his late 50's, with so many wonderful stories to share! He was a film director and had traveled all of the world. I honestly wish I had a recording of our time talking so I could more easily remember it all. He had this crazy white hair sort of sticking up everywhere and wore bright orange glasses. Although we arrived to Agra 1 hour late I never would have known and we wished each other a good journey as we exited the train.

Once again my love for conversation helped to ease some of the stress of the "transition" from one city to the next…I had talked to the owner of the guesthouse in Khajuraho and he just happened to have a friend in Agra with a guesthouse within walking distance of the Taj Mahal AND an auto rickshaw driver that would pick us up from the train station! See, now this is what I love most about staying in guesthouses apposed to hotels…you are given the opportunity to actually get to know the people, and then you end up on this sweet journey of loving people that are honest, helpful, and are just plain awesome! And sure enough, once we got out of the station I saw a sign with my name on it and we were off to the Pyrenees Home Stay. As soon as we arrived my backpack was taken up to our room and even though it was quite late they offered to cook us dinner. I have to say that this was one of my favorite guesthouses so far. From the moment we arrived I felt like I was invited into their home. The kitchen was up on the rooftop along with some table and chairs. They turned on the decretive lights and even made a fire because it was so cold. The food was made to order, but to be honest I didn't feel like I was "ordering" my food…it was more like I was just hanging out deciding what I wanted to eat, as if I was at a friends house. Rajeev made us the best veg pakora I have had yet with a spicy sauce, veg kofta (meatless balls in a yummy sauce) and butter naan (bread). 

While he was cooking our feast I noticed a big production happening down below in what is usually a big empty lot. Large red tents had been erected, there were many tables and chairs, as well as an area that had a bunch of chairs lined up in rows as if for some kind of ceremony. Then I noticed off to the side a lot of motion…it was a "kitchen"! There were many very large pots and lots of people bustling around…a couple of people were rolling some sort of dough into balls and throwing them into a big pile which I assumed would soon be some sort of bread. I soon figured out they were catering…a muslim wedding! It was quite fun to watch everything coming together for the big celebration:) Rajeev began to tell me a little bit about the traditions of a muslim wedding. It was like 9pm and they were just preparing everything…he said that it is very common for weddings to be held that late at night, the guests all arrive first and eat, very casually but in a more formal setting. Then as people finish eating everyone begins to gather around the entrance to the tent where the ceremony is held. It was quite a commotion! Not quiet like all the weddings i have been too. As the bride and groom arrive everyone meets them at the entrance, lots of pictures, flower petals being thrown into the air, and very load music, mainly live hand drums are played, and everyone began to jump around and dance and sing and hoot and holler! As the bride and groom walked towards the front of the tent down the aisle everyone stayed right around them, following them in a rhythmic jumping movement. It was very interesting to witness. Rajeev said if I wanted I could go down and join in the celebration, that they love it when foreigners come to their weddings even if they don't know them! Man o man I wanted to crash that muslim wedding so bad but I was so tired and we were going to the Taj for sunrise in the morning so I regretfully declined.

Can't help but think of my family's love of catering!

I was grateful when Rajeev offered to make me some hot milk tea (chai), and deeply enjoyed it as I warmed my bones next to the fire and embraced the cool air as I breathed it into my lungs. Tomorrow I would be seeing the Taj Mahal with my own eyes, witnessing, for myself, maybe the the most profound profession and symbol of love. It was very hard for me to even imagine what it might feel like to be there, standing in front probably the most famous monument in the world! Well, as I often say, only time will tell.